Could Syria be the next country on must-visit list?

It was our first night together in Damascus, which lays a strong claim to being the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city –  with excavated tablets dating to 2500 BC. So, it seemed fitting that my wife, Linda, and I should celebrate our first dinner here in the historic center of the Old City.

Our walk-to destination was Casablanca Restaurant. We’d been told it has a  menu in English, serves Italian cuisine, is reasonably priced and popular with Europeans. To reach the restaurant, our path led us down long, narrow Straight Street, which is mentioned in The Bible.

To help plan the next day’s activities, Linda carried our Lonely Planet guide, “Syria and Lebanon.” After being seated at a corner table, we were amused at what we saw across the room:  Two other American couples, perusing identical copies of the same blue-and-white tourist guide.

That unusual happenstance helped confirm the rumor that Syria — long the private playground of European and Middle East tourists — is slowly being discovered by Americans.  It was the first of many encounters we had with dozens of other Yanks in Syria – visitors from California, Colorado and Texas to Minnesota and New York.

More than once we heard visiting Americans tell us they’d been afraid to visit Syria because of negative news reports they’d read back home. It’s easy to understand such apprehension.  During previous visits to Egypt, Lebanon and Israel, it was commonplace to see military or local police carrying  automatic weapons, patrolling city streets in armed vehicles and checking foreign passports at hotels.

We saw none of that in modern, peaceful Syria.

Focus on exploring

In Damascus, we focused on shopping in the huge, traditional covered souks (marketplaces) with their incredible bargains for rugs, clothing and jewelry. We visited museums, relaxed in hammams (Turkish baths) and explored the city’s historic sites.

Our initial ancient architectural target was Umayad Mosque, one of Islam’s grandest buildings, rivaling those in Medina and Mecca. Worship here dates back 3,000 years. As in all mosques, we left our shoes at the threshold and Linda donned a hooded cloak for a guided tour.

Viewing the next antiquity was easy. We climbed to the roof of Hanania Hotel, where we were staying, to get a bird’s eye view of a portion of the Old City wall rebuilt in the 13th Century.

There are architectural wonders throughout Syria; it’s the prime reason tourists visit this Arab land. We, too, were eager to walk in what once were the stomping grounds of John the Baptist, Alexander the Great, Anthony and Cleopatra, Marco Polo, Queen Zenobia, Saladin, several Roman Emperors and Lawrence of Arabia.

On to Aleppo

To reach the first of Syria’s superstar historical gems outside Damascus, we boarded a northbound train for Aleppo. Located near the Turkish border, it is Syria’s second largest city.  Enroute, we noticed that the farther north we traveled, the more “Arab” the character of the country became.  In Aleppo, many men were wearing the jalabiyya (long gown) and the region’s kufeyya (checkered head scarf). Conversely, Orthodox women were veiled while their little girls ran free.

Our objective in Aleppo was The Citadel, a spectacular landmark sitting atop a mammoth natural mound. Looking up at the ramparts, a thousand feet high for city defense, my wife exclaimed: “I am in hog heaven.” (That’s a very un-Islamic cliché since pork is forbidden.)

To enter The Citadel, we climbed steep stone stairs through a gate and we crossed a bridge over a moat 70 feet below.  Then, for hours we explored:  a theatre, courtyards, gardens, Ottoman-era barracks, giant doors decorated by lions, sunken chambers and the remains of a 13th Century palace. The Citadel served as a power base for the Muslims during the 12th Century crusades.

Spotting us as Americans, children swarmed us. Calling me “Papa, papa,” they wouldn’t stop hollering until I took a group photo.

Palmyra and beyond

Our next stop was Palmyra. Dating to the 2nd Century AD, this sprawling colossus in the Great Syrian Desert sits between a lush date palm oasis and a majestic mountain-top Arab castle. The site includes temple ruins, an avenue of mighty colonnades and funerary towers.

Here are some other options: Near Hama is Krak des Chevalier, considered the world’s finest restored castle; at Dumeir, find a restored Roman temple; overlooking the Euphrates River there’s  the 280 B.C. Roman fortress city Dura Europos; and in Homs, visitors and view a half dozen giant operating wooden waterwheels.

Meet the people

The best treat of all, however, was Syria’s incredibly friendly people. Their warm, positive attitude toward tourists was reflected everywhere – from average citizens on the street to taxi drivers, shopkeepers and hotel workers. Some examples:

On the train to Aleppo, a businessman left his seat to tell us,  ”Welcome to Syria.” A few minutes later, he returned with hot coffee and snacks for Linda and me.  Still later, crew members invited us to join them for an informal  lunch.

Near dusk we were driven to Jebel Qassioun, a mount overlooking much of Damascus. Several families shared their picnic snacks with us. Later, we listened to the symphony of the day’s last Muslim call to prayer as it sounded simultaneously from dozens of minarets far below.

In separate hammams, Linda and I were questioned by Syrians of all ages about everything American — cities, customs, Hollywood, politics. Almost everyone we encountered expressed fascination with President Obama.

IF YOU GO: You’ll need a visa to visit Syria. The cost is $131. Contact the Honorable Consul of Syria, Dr. Hazem Chehabi, San Joaquin Plaza, #190, Newport Beach, CA 92660. Travelers with Israel stamps in their passports will not be admitted into Syria.

Immunizations: Check with your physician before you go.  Some doctors recommend shots to protect against hepatitis A & B and typhoid.  It’s a good idea to pack Imodium AD for mild diarrhea.

Getting there: Fly to London, then on to Damascus. British Airways offers nonstops linking London and Damascus. The Damascus airport is 19 miles from city center.

Getting around: Taxis, all yellow, are plentiful and cheap. The average city ride costs about $5, but cab drivers carry a minimum number of small Syrian pounds for making change – so stock up on SP in small denominations in advance.  All streets in Syria’s four largest cities are well paved; many street signs are in English – but there are no street numbers.

Hiring a driver and vehicle for an all-day visit to famous ruins at sites such as Palmyra cost $150 U.S. per couple.

For long distance travel, trains are best. They are comfortable, modern and dirt cheap. A 3 1/2-hour rail ride from Damascus to Aleppo costs less than $10 U.S. per person.

Staying in Damascus :  Hanania in the Old City, offers nine rooms. It’s comfortable and friendly. Rates start at about  $150 per night.  Learn more at www.hananiahotel.com; phone 963 11 543 69 90.

Sheraton Damascus in Omayad Square is popular with large groups. It offers good dining and entertainment, including belly dancing. Rates start at $250 per night.  Learn more at www.sheratondamascus.com;  phone 963 11 339 543 5247.

Omayad Hotel, one mile from the city center,  near the National Museum.  It’s family owned and beautiful. Rooms for two start at $140. Learn more at www.Omayadhotel.net;  phone 963 11 221 7700.

Staying in Aleppo:  Ramsis Hotel in the center city offers 4-star small rooms for $129  per night. Learn more at  www.ramsishotel.com;  phone 963 21 211 1102.

Eating there: Prices range is from $10 for two at a decent sit-down restaurant to $30-$40 for two, including wine, at a fine restaurant such as Casablanca in the Christian quarter of the Old City of Damascus.

Etcetera: Syrian time is 10 hours ahead of San Diego. The best months to visit are March to May and September to November. Syria’s non-working days are Friday (a Muslim holy day) and Saturday.

Smoking is not permitted in restaurants, a new edict issued in April. Drink only bottled water.

For driving tours outside Damascus, contact Allo Waha, 963 933 833 62.

Tags: Aleppo, Damascus, Euphrates, Homs, Krak des Chevalier, Palmyra, SDNN, Syria

This entry was posted on Monday, May 31st, 2010 at 6:00 am and is filed under Wanderlust . You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.