Convoy Sushi offers history and great fish too

In the heart of Clairemont Mesa, tucked between rows of car dealerships and industrial parks, lies a tiny strip-mall once home to San Diego’s first sushi restaurant.   This historic spot is now Convoy Sushi, what has been a quality fish market known to locals as the freshest catch in town.  Until recently they offered a limited take-out lunch menu with a few delights such as fish and chips and pre-made Rainbow rolls to grub during a quick work break.  Now, with new vision, Convoy Sushi is making a run for its money.

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Big Roll (Photo by Chelsea Sauer)

The first time I tried to find Convoy Sushi, I drove past twice before finally noticing the blue awning.  There it was, a tiny hole in the wall between a Korean BBQ and Korean meat market.  Skeptical at first, the lure of quality fish at affordable prices drew me in and once I tasted, I knew it had been worth the search.

In the past couple of months owner Chris Park has done some major redecorating, from the beautiful marble bar to the full service lunch and dinner menus, Convoy Sushi is becoming one of the more quality sushi restaurants in San Diego with prices that won’t break the bank.  As a bonus, their fish market is still open on the weekends offering such selections as live, wild, jumbo shrimp and fresh ahi.

Sushi Chef Abel Ramirez got his start at Sushi on the Rocks in La Jolla several years ago.  He has since continued perfecting his craft and is creating inventive raw fish combinations daily, with hopes for a continually expanding menu and business.   His menu offers innovative special rolls, such as the Big Roll which contains five different kinds of fresh seafood and avocado wrapped — sans rice — in very thin cucumber and topped with a sweet and spicy sauce.

Many menu options, from the Spicy Edamame to the Fire Roll, are packed with heat, but not in a way that burns or brings tears; it’s the kind of spice that dances on the middle of your tongue to accent the salty, sweet and acidic flavors of the sauce.  The end result is a perfect balance of flavors and textures in each fresh fish filled bite.

At Convoy Sushi the small details really push the food over the top.  The fresh white pickled ginger is such a treat compared with the pink stuff from a jar you would find at other sushi restaurants in the same price range.  The miso soup has chunks of tender, succulent shiitake mushrooms that burst with mushroomy miso flavor in a lightly salty broth; it’s a perfect start to the rest of the meal. Park and Ramirez are continuing to improve and expand the menu. They have extended their hours for dinner, and soon hope to provide a Happy Hour menu and Sake selection.

Though their sushi is fresh, interesting, and flavorful, it is a mistake to overlook the hot offerings of the kitchen.  The appetizers are equally enticing, such as Korean short ribs served with buttery sweet potatoes and fresh kimchi–to die for!  The thinly sliced meat has been marinated for several hours and flash grilled for a tender, sweetly succulent taste of Korea, washed down with tangy kimchi (fermented cabbage salad) that is not overly acidic, followed with a bite of sweet potato puree.

A modern sushi restaurant is a bold move in an area rife with Asian cuisine, especially since the newest outpost of the super-popular Sushi Deli franchise is a few blocks away.  My money, though, is on Convoy Sushi, where dynamic Ramirez handles 8-inch live shrimp, shaves long, delicate cucumber ribbons, and delivers pristine sashimi towers with finesse—keeping you coming back for more. Convoy Sushi is located at 7905 Engineer Road, San Diego, Calif. 92111; and can be reached at 858-442-9489.

Chelsea Sauer is a caterer and foodie based in San Diego. If you would like to ask her a question, please send it to ChelseaSauer(at)gmail.com

Tags: Convoy Street, fish, salmon, SDNN, sushi, sushi roll, tuna

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