Exotic Myanmar retains many centuries-old ways

To go, or not to go? That was the question I posed to myself before my first visit to Myanmar. Many governments discourage travel to Myanmar, formerly called Burma, due to the repressive government.

After some research and soul-searching I learned that the government has little to do with tourism and sanctions tend to hurt the people more than the government. So I went.

That was early last year.

I found the people so welcoming and country so fascinating that I planned to return in the spring. Then Cyclone Nargis hit - the worst natural disaster to strike the country in its recorded history.

I was back in Myanmar this year - and this time I felt no angst because I knew every dollar I spent would be even more important to the people.

More than 100,000 people died during the cyclone but fortunately there was no second wave of deaths caused by disease. Recovery is taking place at a slow but steady pace.

Except for some damage in the capital city of Yangon, formerly known as Rangoon, most tourist areas were untouched by the storm.

Kipling’s ‘Road to Mandalay’

More than a century ago, Rudyard Kipling visited  Burma, and said it was “quite unlike any land you know about.” His poem, “The Road to Mandalay,” a tribute to a former capital of the country,  has evoked images of romance and beauty in the minds of travelers for generations.

Myanmar is still an exotic destination that has changed little in the last 50 years.

The most beguiling aspect of Myanmar is the friendly people who have retained their culture and are not jaded by commercialism. One of my guides put it this way:  ”We don’t have McDonald’s, but we do have fast food. All Myanmar food is fast to prepare.”

Even though Yangon lost many trees to Cyclone Nargis, it is still a very green city. On each of my visits there, I stayed at The Governor’s Residence, built in the traditional style with beautiful gardens, a koi-filled stream, and an emerald green pool. A gong announced my arrival and the beginning of unparalleled service.

I was impressed by Yangon’s golden Reclining Buddha, which is 229 feet in length.

Yangon’s most important Buddhist Temple, Shwedagon Pagoda, is truly a symphony in gold at sunset. I was surprised when I was invited inside the monks’ living quarters - in a neat but basic building.

Irrawaddy River cruise

From Yangon I flew to Bagan, an ancient capital that reached its pinnacle between AD 1057 and 1287. There I boarded the luxurious “Road to Mandalay” boat for a tour along the Irrawaddy River. The boat is operated by Orient Express, so tours and service are impeccable.

Impressive ruins spread over acres and provided insight to the power that was once Myanmar. Tours, included in the cost of the cruise, took me to impressive pagodas; pottery, lacquer ware, and other handicraft workshops; traditional farming villages; a Buddhist convent, colorful outdoor markets; and to the top of a pagoda to watch the sunset.

People in the villages we passed stopped to wave but continued their work as if we were longtime acquaintances.

Lake Inle

While Bagan is a major draw for tourists, there are many other unique destinations in Myanmar.

When I arrived at Paramount Inle Resort on Lake Inle, the two Padaung women who greeted me had stacks of brass rings around their necks. (In Myanmar it is common to see ethnic groups in traditional garb.)

The hotel is built over the water on stilts in the traditional manner, so I had a front porch view of daily life on the lake - where  fishermen still practice their one-leg rowing style.

At the local farmers’ market I was bedazzled by the explosion of color and fascinated by the sights. I wandered past an outdoor barbershop, watched a vendor prepare betel nut for chewing, a lady pounding fish into paste, and shopped for handicrafts.

Mrauk Oo

From Yangon, I flew  to Sittwee on the Bay of Bengal and boarded a traditional teak boat for a seven-hour ride to Mrauk Oo Princess Resort.

Mrauk Oo is an important archeological site in Rakhine State. It reached its glory in the 16th century. Early one morning I climbed to the top of a temple hill where the staff of the Princess Resort had my breakfast waiting.

It was a mystical experience watching the morning mist dissipate as the sun rose over Mrauk Oo. It set the mood for touring the archeological site and wandering through the Shrine of 80,000 Images.

My favorite day began in a vintage Willys Jeep, followed by a three-hour river trip to a traditional Chin State village with rattan and bamboo homes and women with intricately tattooed faces.

Ngapali Beach

Imagine a long, sweeping, pristine beach with no nasty currents, no mosquitoes, no annoying vendors, first-class resorts, and excellent service, and you have Ngapali Beach. I visited on both of my trips - staying at the appropriately named Amazing Resort, with a pool, hot tub, spa and 24-hour room service.

Now I’m back home — planning my third trip to the country.  Next time, l want to visit Kalaw, a popular hill station during the British colonial days; the huge, precariously balanced Golden Rock; and at the end, relax again at Ngapali Beach - for a week.

IF YOU GO

Essentials: You’ll need a visa to travel to Myanmar. Air Asia, www.airasia.com, offers roundtrip tickets linking Bangkok to Rangon for about $110. There are no ATMs in the country, and while most hotels accept credit cards, it is best to bring cash.

Learn more: To check out the places I stayed or visited, go to www.myanmarwonderstravel.com, www.governorsresidence.com, www.orient-express.com, www.amazing-hotel.com, www.mraukooprincessresort.com.

Tags: Array, Burma, Myanmar, SDNN, temple, Travel, trip

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