- A south India sytle meal. (Cox & Kings photos)
From Aline Koppel — A foodie in India
I am a ‘foodie’ and I love to travel. So you can imagine that one of the best trips I ever took was to India, arranged by Cox & Kings. The highlight was a stay at Vanyavilas, near Sawai Madhopur, a tiger preserve.
But the cooking school at this luxury tent resort overshadowed my interest in tigers.
When my husband and I arrived, we were welcomed by the executive chef and the sous chef, the manager and our houseboy, and festooned with garlands of limes, mace, cardamom and chilies.
Into the kitchen
After our first unproductive game drive I reported to the kitchen where Chef Singh was waiting for me. We first toured the herb and salad garden, and he told me that many of the greens and herbs that they use in the kitchen, such as chervil, are not familiar to the Indians, and that’s why they must grow their own. (On the way he pointed out the mango trees for making their own chutney.)
Then I donned my Vanyavilas apron and immediately set about making the chicken curry offered on the evening’s menu. All of the ingredients were measured out, except that the spices, both sweet and savory, came from a large tin compartmented box, and were added by feel — the chef’s, not mine.
As we prepared the curry, Mr. Singh talked about the importance of cooking the spices first, and removing them, then cooking the onions well before adding the garlic or ginger-garlic paste, because garlic makes the mixture stick to the pan.
While the curry bubbled on one burner, we made akha palak, a very simple Rajasthani specialty of spinach stir-fried with cumin and garlic — and many other ingredients that are so integral to Moghul cooking that they bear listing: lemon juice, red chili powder, chopped green chilies, whole red chilies, and tomatoes.
Tandoor cooking
Eventually we moved to the tandoor ovens section of the kitchen. Although I know I will never cook anything in a tandoor, I was quite excited at the prospect of getting ‘up close and personal’ with these ancient ovens.
- Cooking class in India
First the tandoor chef, Gaurav, demonstrated the preparation of murgh tikka, bite-sized chicken pieces marinated with yogurt and red chilies and cooked in the tandoor. Then he taught me to make murgh malai tikka, a more complex version using egg, cream, and of all things, processed cheddar cheese, in the marinade.
As each dish cooked, I had an opportunity to taste it. I was tempted to eat all of each one! Then I watched as they prepared various breads cooked in the tandoor, but didn’t offer to participate.
The kitchen at Vanyavilas has two of ovens — one is maintained at a higher temperature (700 degrees F.) for breads and kabobs, and one slightly cooler for other meats and vegetables.
Gaurav explained that cooking meats in an oven this hot seals in the juices almost instantly, and since the fuel is charcoal; it gives both meats and breads that grilled flavor so popular in the U. S.
Surprise guest
Later that afternoon a hush fell over the kitchen and the tension was palpable. It seems that the owner, Mr. Oberoi, was staying at Vanyavilas and had just been seated in the dining room for his mid-day meal. He ordered phaldhari chaat as an appetizer.
It’s a dish developed in the Vanyavilas kitchen: a mixture of fresh fruits marinated in rock salt and tamarind, and many other ingredients, skewered and cooked in the tandoor.
With this dish he wanted puris, thin, flat bread also cooked in the tandoor. But he wanted them thinner and smaller than usual. It was difficult to get them thin enough without having them burn in spots, and my lesson came to a standstill while Mr. Singh and Gaurav worked feverishly to get them just right.
- Instructor makes Keralan fish curry
We finished up the afternoon by making dal lasooni, a traditional Rajasthani lentil delicacy tempered with garlic, cumin and red chilies.
By this time my brain was exploding and my feet were wearing out, so we called it a day and I retreated to our marvelous tent with a glass of ice-cold watermelon juice.
Off to market
In some ways the next day was even more exciting. Mid-morning, Mr. Singh and I went to the market in Sawai Madhopur. Some of the produce I recognized: baby eggplant, English peas, spinach, green mangoes, and papayas, as well as potatoes, tomatoes, and other fairly standard produce. Others I had never seen before and Mr. Singh didn’t know the English word for them.
- Choosing fresh nutmeg
We then paid a visit to the spice merchant. The spice merchant would open a can, or a bag; we would take a handful or a pinch, poke at it, rub it, taste it, smell it and put the rest back in its container. Most of the spices I recognized and have used. But I realize now that most of mine aren’t fresh enough and must be discarded.
When we returned to Vanyavilas, only a 15-minute drive but a whole different world, I was escorted to a spot on the lawn next to a lake with a fountain. Brightly colored umbrellas had been set up, and under them were several tables draped with vibrant-hued Indian cloths. Here a woman from the local village, mother of a member of the kitchen staff, demonstrated techniques of home cooking on a charcoal brazier. Although much of the preparation had been done ahead, it was delightful to watch how quickly and skillfully she put together some very tasty dishes.
Best for last
To commemorate this fabulous cooking adventure, I was presented with a collection of all the recipes I had worked on, reduced to serve 4 or 6. It was nicely bound and included information on the influence of Ayurveda on Indian cuisine (the six flavors,) the various spices and their uses, and the fresh herbs most commonly used.
I also received a cookbook entitled “Cooking With Indian Masters,” which Mr. Singh thinks is still the definitive work on authentic Indian cooking; and a beautiful reed basket with a lid, about 12 inches in diameter that contained 16 satin pouches filled with packets of Indian spices.
If you go: Cox & Kings is currently offering a 17-night food-focused trip, “India Beyond Curry,” which includes stops in Dehli, Agra, Varanasi, Lucknow, Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), Madras, and Cochin. The cost is $7,645 per person, based on double occupancy and includes luxury accommodations, ground transportation, some meals and guide services. Add $2,345 per person for air travel within India. Airfare to and from Delhi is extra. Details: India Beyond Curry.
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Comment by: swapna Posted: July 2, 2009, 12:02 am
Thank you for delightful article. However puris are fried, not baked in a tandoor. Phaldari chaat is a standard street dish. This may simply have been their version.
‘Moghul cooking…: lemon juice, red chili powder, chopped green chilies, whole red chilies, and tomatoes.’ No, this is typical of veg Hindu cooking. Moghul cooking usually involves cream, dry fruit, heavy gravies, much frying.
Hope u return and have another good holiday.
Comment by: Recent Travel stories Posted: July 20, 2009, 10:25 am
[...] Readers Write - Foodie explores India [...]
Comment by: Kitchen design Posted: August 8, 2009, 2:21 am
Good post indeed! Thanks for sharing such nice information.
Kitchen design
Comment by: L.Lynn Posted: September 9, 2009, 8:23 pm
Thank you for the wonderful article. I could smell the spices, taste the goodies, and most of all, feel a little of India. We, too, went to Vanyavillas thru Cox and Kings. It was part of a 19 day trip that was the best we’ve ever taken. I was invited into the kitchen, taught to make some Sweet Lime jam, and vowed to return someday. You have spurred me on. However, this time I’ll try an arrange some cooking classes ahead of time. Thank you again. We need more stories of India travel.