In Season: stalk options plenty with asparagus

Asparagus is an ancient vegetable that’s been cultivated for more than 2,500 years. And in that time the tender green shoots that offer an unmistakable fresh green taste haven’t lost their charm.

Asparagus season is reaching its peak right now and there are lots of delicious ways to use this vegetable that’s a member of the lily family. The name asparagus comes from the ancient Greek word aspharagos which refers to the tasty sprouts or shoots.

The fat or thin asparagus question is a matter of personal preference. At one time, the thicker, juicier spears were preferred and the skinny ones were discarded. But a clever marketer changed that by making the thin spears seem more elegant and a demand for slender asparagus was born.
Green asparagus is the most common variety, but if you’re getting bored with it, then it’s time to explore cooking with white or purple asparagus.

White asparagus is the same variety as green, it simply hasn’t been exposed to sunlight. In a growing process called etiolation, dirt is kept mounded over the emerging stalk. Since the plant can’t produce chlorophyll without light, the stalks stay white. While they can be used interchangeable in recipes, white asparagus is prized for its sweeter flavor and more juicy texture, especially in Europe. During asparagus season, it’s not uncommon to see dishes featuring white asparagus along with poached or hard-boiled eggs or a rich hollandaise sauce.

Purple asparagus originated in Albenga, Italy, and is much sweeter than the standard green cultivar, making it perfect for salads and pasta dishes, especially since it loses that vibrant purple punch when cooked.

White asparagus can be found fairly easily these days even in supermarkets. Purple asparagus can be more of a challenge to locate, but sometimes you’ll find it at farmers markets or at Specialty Produce (www.specialtyproduce.com) in Middletown.

Look For: Whether fat or thin, go for evenly colored spears that are firm. The asparagus should snap when you try to break off the end, not bend. Avoid spears with mushy tops or wrinkled spears which means its getting old.

The Facts: Besides offering a green fresh taste, asparagus is low in calories and packed with folic acid, and vitamins A, B and C. A half-cup serving of fresh asparagus has just 13 calories and 135 mg of potassium, 301 mcg of betacaroten and 507 IU of Vitamin A, according to the USDA Nutrient Database.

Bonus Points: According to the US National Cancer Institute, asparagus has the highest content of glutathione, which is considered a potent cancer-fighter. Researchers at Rutgers University have found that asparagus contains many beneficial plant chemicals including rutin and protodioscin which have shown promise in inhibiting cancer cell growth and lowering cholesterol.

Asparagus Pasta With Lemon
There’s something elegant and utterly fresh about the combination of asparagus and fresh lemon zest with silky noodles.
Makes 4 servings

1/2 pound asparagus
12 ounces penne or egg tagliatelle
salt and pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup heavy cream
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat leaf parsley, to serve
Grated Parmesan cheese

Break off the tough or bendy bottom ends of the asparagus. If the stems are quite thick, pare off a thin layer of stalk at the stem end with a potato peeler. Cut the stalks at an angle, leaving the tips whole. Steam or boil the asparagus for 7 to 8 minutes, until tender but still crisp. Rinse cold water and drain.

Cook the pasta in a pot of salted boiling water until al dente.

While you’re cooking the pasta, warm the butter and cream in a pan over low heat and simmer for a couple of minutes. Add the cooked asparagus and the lemon zest and juice. Take off the heat and leave for 5 minutes for the flavors to blend.

When the pasta is cooked, drain all but a tablespoon of the cooking liquid, add the olive oil, and combine with the asparagus and lemon sauce.

Stir, season, and serve with plenty of chopped flat-leaf parsley scattered on top and a bowl of grated Parmesan on the side.

From In Season: Cooking with Vegetables and Fruits by Sarah Raven Universal, $40

White Asparagus With Black Garlic Vinaigrette
White asparagus has a nice mild sweetness that is enhanced by the black garlic. Black garlic is garlic that has been aged and fermented. It is soft and sweet but still has a garlicky flavor.
Makes 4 servings

For the vinaigrette:
5 cloves black garlic *
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 pound white asparagus, washed and trimmed
½ cup toasted walnut pieces
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

To make the vinaigrette, put the black garlic, Dijon mustard, salt, sugar, black pepper and balsamic vinegar in the bowl of a food processor or blender and process until the black garlic has been completely incorporated with the rest of the ingredients. Slowly add the olive oil. Adjust seasonings to taste. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Immerse the asparagus and blanch for 1 minute. Remove the asparagus from the heat and run under cold water to stop the cooking process.

Dry the asparagus and arrange on a platter. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the asparagus. Then sprinkle the walnut pieces and fresh thyme leaves over the asparagus.

*Note: Black garlic is available online at Terra Spice Co, Mondo Food and Italco Food.

From Caron Golden

Tri-Color Asparagus Salad
The sweetness of the lemon olive oil and the saltiness of the pancetta are a good complement to the raw asparagus.
Makes 4 servings

¾ oz. of pancetta, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup lemon- or citrus-flavored olive oil
1/3 lb. of raw white asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into three-inch pieces
1/3 lb. of raw green asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into three-inch pieces
1/3 lb. of raw purple asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into three-inch pieces
2 tablespoons Italian parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 bag salad greens

Sauté the pancetta until browned, then drain on a paper towel and set aside.

In a small bowl, combine the garlic, vinegar and salt, then slowly whisk in the olive oil.

In a large bowl, combine the asparagus, parsley and dressing. Arrange the salad greens on a platter and spoon the asparagus mixture onto the greens. Sprinkle the pancetta over the asparagus.

From Caron Golden

Roseville Asparagus Salad With Truffle Vinaigrette and Bread Crumb Salsa
This salad plays on the classic combination of eggs and asparagus with some crispy pancetta thrown in for good measure.
Makes 4 servings

20 spears asparagus, blanched
2 shallots, diced finely
2 tablespoons dijon mustard
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons canned truffle shavings (optional)
1 cup champagne vinegar
2-1/2 cups olive oil, divided use
1/2 cup truffle oil
salt and pepper, to taste
2 cloves garlic, slightly smashed
1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup fried capers
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
2 cups baby frisee lettuce
2 cups watercress
truffle vinaigrette (yield is 3.5 cups)
1/2 cup pancetta lardons, chopped, cooked and drained
4 whole eggs
3/4 cup bread crumb salsa

Cut the woody ends off the asparagus. Blanch the spears until they’re al dente in salted boiling water. Remove the asparagus and shock it in a bowl of ice water. Drain and pat dry.

To make the shallot vinaigrette, in a large bowl mix together the shallots, mustard, honey, truffle shavings if using and champagne vinegar. With a whisk, slowly drizzle the 2 cups olive oil and truffle oil into the vinegar mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the bread crumb salsa, heat remaining 1/2 cup olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the two cloves garlic and cook until it starts to crackle. Be sure to remove the garlic from the pan before it starts to brown. Add the bread crumbs; the consistency should be of wet sand. Toast the crumbs on medium heat until they are an even golden color. Remove the bread crumbs from the heat and add the capers, lemon zest and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the salad, in a large mixing bowl, add the blanched asparagus, frisee and watercress. Dress with the desired amount of vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper. Arrange five spears asparagus side by side on a salad plate to form a base. Top with 1 cup of salad green mixture. Quickly cook an egg sunnyside up without browning the edges. Place the egg on top of the greens. Season the yoke with salt and pepper and a tablespoon or so of breadcrumb salsa. Garnish the plate with an extra drizzle of dressing and a tablespoon or so of the pancetta. Repeat the process with the remaining ingredients.

From Chef Amy DiBiase of Roseville in Point Loma.

Tags: asparagus, Caron Golden, Maria Hunt, recipe, Roseville, SDNN, white asparagus

This entry was posted on Tuesday, June 16th, 2009 at 6:04 pm and is filed under Food . You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.